Los Angeles has long been hailed the frozen yogurt capital of the United States, thanks to self-serve outlets popping up at every strip mall in the metro area after Pinkberry launched in 2005. Finally a new trend has emerged, ripping through neighborhoods as quickly as the phrases “bone broth” and “are those peanuts non-GMO?” spread and saturate Los Angeles vernacular.

Part of a strip mall at the corner of Wilton Place and Santa Monica Boulevard, Baroo offers oasis in an area known for street-level chaos and commuter congestion. The restaurant is small, but filled with just enough place settings to form a relaxed, communal dining room. Walls are lined with charming handwritten signage, plus cases of homemade kombucha and baked goods (like a shortbread cookie studded with cacao nibs and citrus). Visually, the interior rivals any outpost in Echo Park or other ‘hood du jour, yet Baroo’s standout is the total lack of tryhard branding. There’s no pretension, no R&D-forced taglines: just the effortless, almost accidental brilliance of chef-owner Kwang Uh (who counts gigs like Nobu and Denmark’s Noma under his belt).